Where to get your holiday tamales this year

Where to get your holiday tamales this year

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Have you ever plowed through a plate of hot uchepos? Not unless you’ve spent time in Michoacán, I’m guessing, or at least visited Birrieria Apatzingan up in Pacoima. Uchepos are like tamales caressed by an angel, clouds of sweet, fresh corn steamed in corn husks, tasting like nothing but themselves. Diana Kennedy’s recipe calls for nothing but fresh corn and its green husks. Other versions may be tricked out with baking powder, condensed milk and maybe a little rice flour, but the effect is basically the same — what all sweet tamales aspire to be. Birrieria Apatzingan’s uchepos are lovely, striped with gobbets of thick Mexican cream.

If you have…



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